Rania

India remains my favorite journey. In between visits, though, I rely on restaurants including Rania to get my (modern) fix.

No two reservations are ever alike; chef Chetan Shetty, the former talent at Indian Accent in New York, is constantly finessing his menu. He says appearances are important to him. A gold bowl showcases typically humble Parsi chicken: minced thighs, warm with curry leaves and coriander, supporting a “nest” of shoestring potatoes crowned with a delicate poached egg dusted with a red chile blend. Prick the egg and you get a sunny gravy. Taste is crucial, too. Braised lamb fairly swells with green chiles, ginger and cilantro. Along with yogurt and pickled onions, the shredded meat packs a thin chickpea pancake, folded over the luscious filling like a taco.